Friday, September 6, 2013

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Minecraft Pig, Sheep and Cow Pattern


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First off, I want to pass on credit for this pattern. If Nerdigurumi hadn't uploaded this Creeper pattern then I wouldn't know how to make passable cubes. She has a fantastic site full of free patterns, and if you don't know about it, then where have you been?

Any way, this pattern came about after making a Creeper for my friend Alex, who then asked me to make the animals as well. It took some trials, but I'm proud of the result. Particually the sheep. He is my favourite.

Pattern is untested, any queries just message me and I'll try to explain/fix it.

You will need - Yarn in pink, white, tan, brown, and black
                       - Appropriate hook for your yarn to get tight fabric ( I used 8ply and 3.25mm)
                       - Plastic canvas
                       - Stuffing
                       - felt in pink, tan, white, black, light grey and dark grey
                       - small item to weight down toy (I used curtain weights)
                       - craft/ hot glue
                       - embroidery needle.

                       - fabric paint

Cheat Sheet


Ch – Chain

Sc – single crochet
Dc - Double Crochet
Tc - Triple Crochet


FO – Finish off

FLO - Front Loops Only - crochet into the front loops of stitch
BLO – Back Loops Only – crochet into the back loops of stitch

Dec – decrease by putting hook into front loop of two stitches to be brought together, yarn over and bring through all 3 loops on hook. Also known as an “invisible decrease.”

MR6  - Magic Ring plus starting number of stitches. If you don’t know how to do a Magic Ring, I suggest you Google/ YouTube it.
Rounds are joined at the end of each round.  
 So we'll start with the Pig....

Nose (in Pink)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *sc, sc then dc then sc in the same stitch* repeat around, join then Ch1 (16)
3: BLO sc in each sc around, join then Ch1 (16) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff.
Head Part 1 (in Pink)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5. BLO sc around, join then CH 1 (32)
6. sc around, join then CH 1 (32)
7 – 12. sc around; join then CH 1 (32) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 

 
Head Part 2 (in Pink)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 
  
Re-enforce the head with plastic canvas, stuff and sew on part 2 like a lid.  Sew nose to front of head.

Body Part 1 (in Pink)

1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5: sc in the next three sc, *sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next 6 sc* repeat from * to * twice, sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next three sc. Join then Ch1 (40)
6: BLO sc around (40)
7-20: sc around (40) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Body Part 2 (in Pink)

1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5: sc in the next three sc, *sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next 6 sc* repeat from * to * twice, sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next three sc. Join then Ch1 (40) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 


Re-enforce the body with plastic canvas, stuff and sew on part 2 like a lid. Before closing entirely, insert the small weight at the back of body to help balance out the weight of head. 

Legs (in Pink) Make 4
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *sc, sc then dc then sc in the same stitch* repeat around, join then Ch1 (16)
3: BLO sc in each sc around, join then Ch1 (16)  
4-9: sc in each sc around, join then Ch1 (16) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff.

Sew legs to underside of body. Cut small squares of felt out for the nose, toes and eyes, and a small retangle for the ears. 


Now for the Sheep...

Head Part 1 (in White)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5. BLO sc around, join then CH 1 (32)
6. sc around, join then CH 1 (32)
7 – 12. sc around; join then CH 1 (32) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 

 
Head Part 2 (in White)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 
  
Re-enforce the head with plastic canvas, stuff and sew on part 2 like a lid.  Sew nose to front of head.

Body Part 1 (in White)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5: sc in the next three sc, *sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next 6 sc* repeat from * to * twice, sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next three sc. Join then Ch1 (40)
6: BLO sc around (40)
7-20: sc around (40) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Body Part 2 (in White)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5: sc in the next three sc, *sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next 6 sc* repeat from * to * twice, sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next three sc. Join then Ch1 (40) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 


Re-enforce the body with plastic canvas, stuff and sew on part 2 like a lid. Before closing entirely, insert the small weight at the back of body to help balance out the weight of head. 

Legs (start in Brown) Make 4
1: MR4. Join then Ch1 (4)
2: Sc then dc in each sc around. Join then Ch1 (8)
3: BLO sc around. Join, FO brown. Attach tan and ch1 (8)
 4-6: sc around. Join then Ch1 (8)
7: sc around. Join , FO tan. Attach White and ch1 (8)
8: FLO *sc, sc then dc then sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
9: BLO sc around. Join then Ch1 (16)
10-12: sc around. Join then Ch1 (16) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff.


Sew legs to underside of body. Cut out a t shape from tan felt for the face, attach small suares for the eyes and mouth Look at reference pictures online for a better idea.

And finally the cow...


Head Part 1 (in Brown)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5. BLO sc around, join then CH 1 (32)
6. sc around, join then CH 1 (32)
7 – 12. sc around; join then CH 1 (32) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 

 
Head Part 2 (in Brown)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 
  
Re-enforce the head with plastic canvas, stuff and sew on part 2 like a lid.  Sew nose to front of head.

Body Part 1 (in Brown)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5: sc in the next three sc, *sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next 6 sc* repeat from * to * twice, sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next three sc. Join then Ch1 (40)
6: BLO sc around (40)
7-22: sc around (40) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Body Part 2 (in Brown)
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *2 sc in the next sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (16)
3: *sc, sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (20)  
4. *sc, sc, sc then dc then tc in same stitch, dc then sc in same stitch, sc* repeat around. Join then Ch1 (32)
5: sc in the next three sc, *sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next 6 sc* repeat from * to * twice, sc then dc in the next sc, dc then sc in the next sc, sc in the next three sc. Join then Ch1 (40) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. 


Re-enforce the body with plastic canvas, stuff and sew on part 2 like a lid. Before closing entirely, insert the small weight at the back of body to help balance out the weight of head. 

Legs (start in Black) Make 4
1: MR8, join then Ch1 (8)
2: *sc, sc then dc then sc in the same stitch* repeat around, join then Ch1 (16)
3: BLO sc in each sc around, join and FO Black. Attach Brown then Ch1 (16)  
4-12: sc in each sc around, join then Ch1 (16) FO and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff.

Sew legs to underside of body. Cut a large square of pink felt for the underside, small squares of felt out for the nose and eyes, and a small triangle shape for the ears.  Look at reference pictures online for a better idea. For the horns, I took a rectangle of felt and rolled it up.

The patches of white were dabbed on with white fabric paint and a brush to give it that pixelated look. The patches appear on the same place with all cows, if you want to be accurate, or you can wing it :D


Good Luck!

Minecraft is copyright to whoever owns minecraft.
Pattern is inspired by http://nerdigurumi.com 
If you want me to make something for you, why not look at my Cherry Pie Facebook Page?

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Wheatley Crochet Pattern


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So my good friend Alex commissioned me to make him Wheatley, from Portal 2. I had no idea who he was, but I decided to take on the challenge. As soon as I started researching, I wanted to cry. But I set myself the task of doing this, especially as Alex has been awesome and commissioned heaps from me.
Being nice, I wrote down the pattern as I went, so here is my pattern I created. I warn you now, it's not easy (especially those damn bar things) but if you put the work in, it's well worth it. Well, I think so.

Pattern is untested, any queries just message me and I'll try to explain/fix it.

You will need - Yarn in white, charcoal, grey, black, sky blue and baby blue.
                     - Appropriate hook for your yarn to get tight fabric ( I used 8ply and 3.25mm)
                     - Plastic canvas
                     - Stuffing
                     - felt in black and medium grey
                     - small wooden dowel or similar
                     - craft/ hot glue
                     - embroidery needle.

Cheat Sheet

Ch – Chain
Sc – single crochet

FO – Finish off
FLO - Front Loops Only - crochet into the front loops of stitch
BLO – Back Loops Only – crochet into the back loops of stitch

Dec – decrease by putting hook into front loop of two stitches to be brought together, yarn over and bring through all 3 loops on hook. Also known as an “invisible decrease.”
MR6  - Magic Ring plus starting number of stitches. If you don’t know how to do a Magic Ring, I suggest you Google/ YouTube it.

I made my Wheatley in amigurumi style - a continous spiral. In retrospect, I think that certain areas (in particular the eye) would work better in joined rounds, as the colour changes wouldn't be as noticable. It's up to you how you make it.


Eye (make one)

Start in Baby Blue.
1: MR6 (6)
2: *2sc in each sc* repeat around (12) FO Baby Blue, attach Sky Blue.
3: *sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (18)
4: *sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (24) FO Sky Blue,.attach Charcoal.
5: FLO *sc in the next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (27)
6: *sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (30) FO Charcoal, attach White.
7: BLO *sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (35)
8: *sc in the next 6 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (40)
9: *sc in the next 7 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (45) FO White, attach Light Grey.
10: *sc in the next 14, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (48) FO, leaving long tail for sewing on later. Attach a circle of plastic canvas to back of eye, making the canvas the same size as the eye itself (the blue part.) 

Cut 3 small circles from medium felt for the 'buttons' and glue to the bottom left of eye. Embroider a small triangle shape with grey yarn on top right.  Reference pictures will help with this part.


Side...eyes? (make three)

Start in Black
1: MR6 (6)
2: *2 sc in each sc* repeat around (12)
3: *sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (18)
4: *sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (24) FO Black, attach Charcoal
5: FLO *sc in the next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (27)
6: *sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (30) FO Charcoal, attach Light Grey.
7: BLO sc around (30)
8:sc around (30) FO, leaving long tail for sewing on later on two side eyes. Attach a circle of plastic canvas to back of eye thing, making the canvas the same size as the eye itself (the black part.)


Body
Take the side eye with no tail, and attach White yarn.
1: *sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (35)
2: *sc in the next 6 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (40)
3: *sc in the next 7 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (45)
4: sc around (45)
5: *sc in the next 8 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (50)
6 -7: sc around (50)
8: *sc in the next 9 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (55)
9 - 10: sc around (55)
11: BLO *sc in the next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (50)
12: FLO *sc in the next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (45)
13 - 17: sc around (45)
18: *sc in the next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around (50) 
19: FLO *sc in the next 9 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (55) 
20: BLO sc around (55)
21: sc around (55)
22: *sc in the next 9 sc, dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (50)
23 - 24: sc around (50)
25:  *sc in the next 8 sc, dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (45)
26: sc around (45)
27: *sc in the next 7 sc, dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (40)
28: *sc in the next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (35)
29: *sc in the next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc* repeat around (30)  FO, stuff firmly but dont distort the middle section (rows 13-17 should sit lower than the rest of the toy. See reference pictures for help)

Sew on second side eye to end of body to close toy. 
Attach eye to front of toy, centre of body. Attach final side eye to back of body, in line with front eye. Look at reference pictures on google for a better idea.

Take grey yarn, and embroider a straight line down row 15 of the body (aka the centre of the body.)

Cut two strips of black felt, attach to top and bottom of body in that row 13-17 space. Cut a larger circle from medium felt and glue to the body. Again, reference pictures help with this part.

Side...arms? (make four) ...Seriously need to name things better.

Start in Black 
1: MR6 (6)
2: *2 sc in each sc* repeat around (12)
3: *sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (18)
4: *sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc* repeat around (24)
5: sc in the next 4 sc, ch 1, turn (4)
6 - 13: sc in the next 4 sc, ch1, turn (4) FO, leave long tail for sewing on later.

Small Circles (make four)
Start in Light Grey.

1: MR6 (6) FO, leave long tail for sewing on later.

Large Circles (make four)
Start in Light Grey.

1: MR6 (6) 
2: *2sc in each sc* repeat around. FO, leave long tail for sewing on later.

Attach a small circle to near top of side arm. Attach a large circle to bottom of side arm, centre of circle. Repeat for all side arms, keeping the position of each circle as similar as possible.

 To make the bars:
So I took my wooden dowels and cut 2 bars approx 23 rows of the body long. I then cut 4 small pieces; the height I took approx from the top of the large grey circle to the bottom of the small grey circle. (These small pieces help strenghten the side arm.)

To colour the side arms, I took craft glue, and yarn, and just wrapped around the dowel, glueing as I went. I used black on the 4 small pieces, and grey on the 2 large dowels.

The idea is you glue the grey bar to two side arms, in line with the two small grey circles at the top. Then to stablise the arm, I glued a small black bar under the grey bar, to each side arm. I then sewed the (dried) side arm/bar contraption to the body, one at the top and one at the bottom. Unfortunately there is no set formula for this part, it was all guess work. 


AND YOU ARE DONE!

Congrats if you finished Wheatley. I would love the see photos of your creations!

You are welcome to sell finished products. Just don't sell the pattern! If you wanna maybe put a link to this pattern, I'd appreciate it.

Want me to come up with a pattern for you? Or want me to crochet something for you? See my facebook page: Cherry Pie

Thursday, November 1, 2012

Updating

I'm not the best updater - I never have been. I suck at keeping diaries for the same reason.

Basically, when I  come up with patterns, they'll go here to be seen. Still feel free to ask me questions.

And you never know, as I get more views, I might bother to post more.

Friday, April 20, 2012

SANDy amigurumi pattern

 SANDy (Cactus Girl) Amigurumi
SANDy and her Cactus Friends zip themselves into cactus suits because they think the world is a cold and scary place, and they need some protection to face it. The cactus is a sign of protection and kids are naive and vulnerable and need protection. The cactus is the conserver of water, and water means life. For Simone Legno, the designer of tokidoki, the Cactus Friends are the representation of life, of being fragile and strong at the same time...and pure like water. SANDy is also referred to as "Cactus Girl," and was created by tokidoki.

This is a pattern for the character SANDy by Simone Legno of tokidoki. I do not own SANDy or any of the tokidoki characters.
Pattern is currently untested, feel free to contact if there are any problems.

You will need
8ply acrylic yarn:  1 ball of green (You won’t use it all)
   Small amount of flesh
   Scraps of red, dark pink, light pink and white.
Crochet hook (use a size to make a tight toy, I used F/3.75mm but you could do 3.5mm or even 3mm.)
Stitch marker (I use a scrap piece of yarn)
Wool needle
Stuffing
Dark green bugle (long tube) beads
Scraps of felt in the following colours: white, black, bright green, yellow, pink, dark pink, flesh
Fine tipped black marker
Light grey embroidery thread
Embroidery needle
Craft glue
Optional: blusher, small sparkly crystal

Cheat Sheet

Ch – Chain
Sc – single crochet
St  – stitch
SlSt – Slip stitch
FO – Finish off
YO – Yarn Over
BLO – Back Loops Only – crochet into the back loops of stitch
2sc in 1 – increase by putting 2 single crochet (or whatever number is written) in one stitch
Dec – decrease by putting hook into front loop of two stitches to be brought together, yarn over and bring through all 3 loops on hook. Also known as an “invisible decrease.”
ML3  - Magic Loop plus starting number  of stitches. If you don’t know how to do a Magic Loop, I suggest you Google/ YouTube it.

This pattern is worked Amigurumi style – the rows are built in a continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker to mark the end of the row so you don’t lose track.

Ears (Make 2)
In Green
ML5 (5)
R1: *2sc in1* repeat around (10)
R2: *2sc in1* repeat around (20)
R3-4: sc around (20)
R5: *sc2, dec* repeat around (15)
R6:  *sc3, dec* repeat around (12)
R7:  sc around (12) Stuff.
R8: *sc2, dec* repeat around (9)
R9: *sc, dec* repeat around (6)
FO, leave long tail for sewing.

Face (Make 1)
Before you begin, take green yarn and cut off a generous length for sewing with later. (I used 60cm, and had plenty left over. You could probably get away with 30cm.) Put aside.
Flesh: Ch4 (4)
R1: Sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, and into next st across. When you reach the end of the ch, make 3 sc into the last st. Turn your work 180 degrees and sc into the other side of the foundation chain. Sc 2, 3sc in1 (10)
R2: sc 3, 3sc in1, sc4, 3sc in1, sc (15)
R3: sc3, 3sc in1, sc2, 3sc in1, sc3, 3sc in1, sc2, 3sc in1 (22)
R4: sc4, 2sc in1, sc4, 2sc in1, sc5, 2sc in1, sc4, 2sc in1, sc (26)
R5: sc6, 2sc in1 twice, sc11, 2sc in1 twice, sc5 (30)
R6: sc around. Slst to first st of R5 round to create smooth oval. Switch to green.
R7: Start in next stitch (not one you slst into), sc4, 3sc in1, sc4, 3sc in1, sc9, 3sc in1, sc4, 3sc in1, sc5 (38)
R8: *2sc in1, sc3* repeat  around (for final repeat, you'll only be able to fit the increase and 1 sc instead of the full 3sc) (48)
R9: BLO sc around. (48)
R10: sc round (48)
R11: *sc4, dec* repeat around. (40)

This next step is easier to do now before you stuff, as you can access the back of the face very easily. Either pull hook with loop on it upwards to make large loop (this will prevent it slipping) or put a safety pin through it.


Grab you pieces of red yarn, and tie a big knot at end.  Thread onto wool needle, and insert into edge of face, from back to front, 3/4 of way along top edge near left corner. Put needle down through bottom edge of face near bottom right corner. Look at a reference picture to see exactly where. Bring needle back up, and do second strand of red hair (you may need to knot yarn at back of first stand to stop it coming back up with needle) Repeat for third strand. Tie off and cut excess.

Using same method, repeat in dark pink, light pink, white, light pink again and finally dark pink. Try to fill in the space as evenly as possible, but if needed, put more strands in to fill up space and not show skin underneath. 

Taking green yarn you put aside earlier, back stitch around face (where green meets flesh) to define the difference a bit better.  Once all yarns are tied off, pick up crocheting again.

R12: *sc8, dec* repeat around (36)
R13: *sc4, dec* repeat around (30)
R14: *sc3, dec* repeat around (24)
R15: *sc4, dec* repeat around (20) Stuff head, but not tightly. Keep the front flattish, while rounding out the back. 
R16: *sc1, dec * repeat around (14)
R17: dec around (7)
FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff head more if required, sew opening closed, with tail. Sew in loose end.

Arms (Make two)
In Green
ML4 (4)
R1: 2sc in1, sc3 (5)
R2: 2sc in1, sc4 (6)
R3: sc around (6) Place tiny amount of stuffing in arm end if desired.
R4: sc2, dec, sc2 (5)
R5 – 6: sc around (5)
R7:  sc3, dec (4)
R8-9: sc around (4)
FO, leave long tail for sewing.

Legs (Make two)
In Green
ML4 (4)
R1: *2sc in1* repeat around (8)
R2:   BLO sc around (8)
R3 - 5: sc around (8)
R6: *sc2, dec* repeat around (6)
R7: sc around (6)
FO, don’t leave tail. Stuff lightly.

Body (Make one)
In Green
Ch3
R1: Sc into the 2nd ch from the hook, 3sc into last st. Turn your work 180 degrees and sc into the other side of the foundation chain, 2sc in1 next st, sc in last st. (8)
R2: 2sc in1 twice, *insert hook in next st of body, insert hook into next st of leg, yo, draw through leg st and body st, yo and draw through both loops. 1sc has been made.* Continue on st of leg, sc4, repeat ** on final leg st. 2sc in1 twice, repeat ** attaching second leg this time, sc4, repeat **. (20)
R3: sc around (20)
R4: *2sc in1, sc*twice, 6sc, repeat ** twice, 6sc (24)
R5: *2sc in1, sc* three times, 6sc, repeat ** three times, 6sc (30)
R6: sc around (30)
R7: *sc3, dec* repeat around (24)
R8: *sc2, dec* repeat around (18)
R9: *sc4, dec* repeat around (15)
R10-11: sc around (15)
FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff.

Putting SANDy together
Sew arms to top of body. Sew ears to head. Sew head to body.  

Looking at reference pictures helps now with the next steps. I sort of just winged it a bit.
 
For eye, cut circle out of white felt, an oval of green felt and a smaller oval out of yellow.  Glue one of top of other, keeping them aligned more towards the right (you can also sew them if desired, but I chose to glue.) If so desired, add a small crystal to left inner of green part of eye for ‘sparkle’ effect.
 Using black felt, cut out her mouth (a small half circle) and her eyelash (basically a curved line with a small triangle at end.) Glue along top of eye, then glue whole eye to face, taking note of placement on references. Glue on mouth. If desired, add small amount of blush to cheek

Using dark pink felt, cut out a small star. Trace onto light pink felt, and cut out about 2mm away from line. Glue together. Cut out a small circle in flesh, and using fine tip marker, draw two dots for eyes, and a small triangle for a mouth. Stick on top of star. Glue to head.

For the zip, take light grey embroidery thread, backstitch along middle of body; start at the bottom and stop around ¾ way up. To make the teeth of the zip, stitch small lines along one side of line, turn and stitch up other side (I highly recommend drawing out the zip with chalk first. I didn’t and it shows very clearly on mine.) At top, stitch a small x (for crossbones) and a small v (for the heart.)
 Now for the spikes. Empty your bugle beads into a small dish. On some scrap card, squeeze out a small blob of craft glue. Take one bead, dip the end slightly into the glue, and glue the bead (standing upright) onto leg of doll (it helps if the beads are placed into the ‘hole’ created by stitches; it gives more yarn for the bead and glue to grab onto.) Continue putting beads onto legs (about 2-3 on each,) arms (about 5 on each) and up around front of front and ears. Just work on the front side for now. Once completed, leave to dry, then turn upside down and use remaining beads on back of ears and head.

Admire your creation!!!! 





SANDy and the Cactus friends are copyright of tokidoki and Simone Legno.

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