SANDy (Cactus Girl) Amigurumi
SANDy and her Cactus Friends zip themselves into cactus suits because
they think the world is a cold and scary place, and they need some protection
to face it. The cactus is a sign of protection and kids are naive and
vulnerable and need protection. The cactus is the conserver of water, and water
means life. For Simone Legno, the designer of tokidoki, the Cactus Friends are
the representation of life, of being fragile and strong at the same time...and
pure like water. SANDy is also referred to as "Cactus Girl," and was
created by tokidoki.
This is a pattern for the
character SANDy by Simone Legno of tokidoki. I do not own SANDy or any of the
tokidoki characters.
Pattern is currently
untested, feel free to contact if there are any problems.
You will need
8ply acrylic yarn: 1 ball of green (You won’t use it all)
Small amount of flesh
Scraps of red, dark pink, light pink and
white.
Crochet hook (use a size to make
a tight toy, I used F/3.75mm but you could do 3.5mm or even 3mm.)
Stitch marker (I use a scrap
piece of yarn)
Wool needle
Stuffing
Dark green bugle (long tube)
beads
Scraps of felt in the
following colours: white, black, bright green, yellow, pink, dark pink, flesh
Fine tipped black marker
Light grey embroidery thread
Embroidery needle
Craft glue
Optional: blusher, small
sparkly crystal
Cheat Sheet
Ch – Chain
Sc – single crochet
St – stitch
SlSt – Slip stitch
FO – Finish off
YO – Yarn Over
BLO – Back Loops Only –
crochet into the back loops of stitch
2sc in 1 – increase by
putting 2 single crochet (or whatever number is written) in one stitch
Dec – decrease by putting
hook into front loop of two stitches to be brought together, yarn over and
bring through all 3 loops on hook. Also known as an “invisible decrease.”
ML3 - Magic Loop plus starting number of stitches. If you don’t know how to do a
Magic Loop, I suggest you Google/ YouTube it.
This pattern is worked
Amigurumi style – the rows are built in a continuous spiral. Use a stitch
marker to mark the end of the row so you don’t lose track.
Ears (Make 2)
In Green
ML5 (5)
R1: *2sc in1* repeat around
(10)
R2: *2sc in1* repeat around
(20)
R3-4: sc around (20)
R5: *sc2, dec* repeat around
(15)
R6: *sc3, dec* repeat around (12)
R7: sc around (12) Stuff.
R8: *sc2, dec* repeat around
(9)
R9: *sc, dec* repeat around
(6)
FO, leave long tail for
sewing.
Face (Make 1)
Before you begin, take green
yarn and cut off a generous length for sewing with later. (I used 60cm, and had
plenty left over. You could probably get away with 30cm.) Put aside.
Flesh: Ch4 (4)
R1: Sc into the 2nd ch from
the hook, and into next st across. When you reach the end of the ch, make 3 sc
into the last st. Turn your work 180 degrees and sc into the other side of the
foundation chain. Sc 2, 3sc in1 (10)
R2: sc 3, 3sc in1, sc4, 3sc
in1, sc (15)
R3: sc3, 3sc in1, sc2, 3sc
in1, sc3, 3sc in1, sc2, 3sc in1 (22)
R4: sc4, 2sc in1, sc4, 2sc
in1, sc5, 2sc in1, sc4, 2sc in1, sc (26)
R5: sc6, 2sc in1 twice, sc11,
2sc in1 twice, sc5 (30)
R6: sc around. Slst to first
st of R5 round to create smooth oval. Switch to green.
R7: Start in next stitch (not
one you slst into), sc4, 3sc in1, sc4, 3sc in1, sc9, 3sc in1, sc4, 3sc in1, sc5
(38)
R8: *2sc in1, sc3* repeat around (for final repeat, you'll only be able
to fit the increase and 1 sc instead of the full 3sc) (48)
R9: BLO sc around. (48)
R10: sc round (48)
R11: *sc4, dec* repeat around.
(40)
This next step is easier to
do now before you stuff, as you can access the back of the face very easily.
Either pull hook with loop on it upwards to make large loop (this will prevent
it slipping) or put a safety pin through it.
Grab you pieces of red yarn,
and tie a big knot at end. Thread onto
wool needle, and insert into edge of face, from back to front, 3/4 of way along
top edge near left corner. Put needle down through bottom edge of face near bottom
right corner. Look at a reference picture to see exactly where. Bring needle
back up, and do second strand of red hair (you may need to knot yarn at back of
first stand to stop it coming back up with needle) Repeat for third strand. Tie
off and cut excess.
Using same method, repeat in
dark pink, light pink, white, light pink again and finally dark pink. Try to
fill in the space as evenly as possible, but if needed, put more strands in to
fill up space and not show skin underneath.
Taking green yarn you put
aside earlier, back stitch around face (where green meets flesh) to define the
difference a bit better. Once all yarns
are tied off, pick up crocheting again.
R12: *sc8, dec* repeat around
(36)
R13: *sc4, dec* repeat around
(30)
R14: *sc3, dec* repeat around
(24)
R15: *sc4, dec* repeat around
(20) Stuff head, but not tightly. Keep the front flattish, while rounding out
the back.
R16: *sc1, dec * repeat
around (14)
R17: dec around (7)
FO, leave long tail for
sewing. Stuff head more if required, sew opening closed, with tail. Sew in
loose end.
Arms (Make two)
In Green
ML4 (4)
R1: 2sc in1, sc3 (5)
R2: 2sc in1, sc4 (6)
R3: sc around (6) Place tiny
amount of stuffing in arm end if desired.
R4: sc2, dec, sc2 (5)
R5 – 6: sc around (5)
R7: sc3, dec (4)
R8-9: sc around (4)
FO, leave long tail for
sewing.
Legs (Make two)
In Green
ML4 (4)
R1: *2sc in1* repeat around
(8)
R2: BLO sc around (8)
R3 - 5: sc around (8)
R6: *sc2, dec* repeat around
(6)
R7: sc around (6)
FO, don’t leave tail. Stuff
lightly.
Body (Make one)
In Green
Ch3
R1: Sc into the 2nd ch from
the hook, 3sc into last st. Turn your work 180 degrees and sc into the other
side of the foundation chain, 2sc in1 next st, sc in last st. (8)
R2: 2sc in1 twice, *insert
hook in next st of body, insert hook into next st of leg, yo, draw through leg
st and body st, yo and draw through both loops. 1sc has been made.* Continue on
st of leg, sc4, repeat ** on final leg st. 2sc in1 twice, repeat ** attaching
second leg this time, sc4, repeat **. (20)
R3: sc around (20)
R4: *2sc in1, sc*twice, 6sc,
repeat ** twice, 6sc (24)
R5: *2sc in1, sc* three
times, 6sc, repeat ** three times, 6sc (30)
R6: sc around (30)
R7: *sc3, dec* repeat around
(24)
R8: *sc2, dec* repeat around
(18)
R9: *sc4, dec* repeat around
(15)
R10-11: sc around (15)
FO, leave long tail for
sewing. Stuff.
Putting SANDy together
Sew arms to top of body. Sew
ears to head. Sew head to body.
Looking at reference pictures
helps now with the next steps. I sort of just winged it a bit.
For eye, cut circle out of
white felt, an oval of green felt and a smaller oval out of yellow. Glue one of top of other, keeping them
aligned more towards the right (you can also sew them if desired, but I chose
to glue.) If so desired, add a small crystal to left inner of green part of eye
for ‘sparkle’ effect.
Using black felt, cut out her mouth (a small
half circle) and her eyelash (basically a curved line with a small triangle at
end.) Glue along top of eye, then glue whole eye to face, taking note of
placement on references. Glue on mouth. If desired, add small amount of blush
to cheek
Using dark pink felt, cut out
a small star. Trace onto light pink felt, and cut out about 2mm away from line.
Glue together. Cut out a small circle in flesh, and using fine tip marker, draw
two dots for eyes, and a small triangle for a mouth. Stick on top of star. Glue
to head.
For the zip, take light grey
embroidery thread, backstitch along middle of body; start at the bottom and
stop around ¾ way up. To make the teeth of the zip, stitch small lines along
one side of line, turn and stitch up other side (I highly recommend drawing out
the zip with chalk first. I didn’t and it shows very clearly on mine.) At top,
stitch a small x (for crossbones) and a small v (for the heart.)
Now for the spikes. Empty
your bugle beads into a small dish. On some scrap card, squeeze out a small
blob of craft glue. Take one bead, dip the end slightly into the glue, and glue
the bead (standing upright) onto leg of doll (it helps if the beads are placed
into the ‘hole’ created by stitches; it gives more yarn for the bead and glue
to grab onto.) Continue putting beads onto legs (about 2-3 on each,) arms
(about 5 on each) and up around front of front and ears. Just work on the front
side for now. Once completed, leave to dry, then turn upside down and use
remaining beads on back of ears and head.
Admire your creation!!!!
SANDy and
the Cactus friends are copyright of tokidoki and Simone Legno.
